Garments Manufacturing Process Sequence

Sequence of garments manufacturing

Maruf Mahfuz
Operations Officer
H.R Textile Mills Limited, Pride Group
Email: maruf.txt@gmail.com
Cell no: 01738676060

1. Design/ Sketch: 

 It in given by buyers to manufacturers containing sketches including measurement of all components.
2. Basic Block:  

Basic block is an individual component of garments without any design or style.

3. Working Pattern: 

The pattern set which is used for sample making is called working pattern.
4. Sample Making: 

 After getting all the specification the sample is mode and sent to the buyer for approval or to rectify the faults.
5. Basic Manufacturing Difficulties:  

The critical path is identified, that is the problems during production are simplified.
6. Approved Sample:  

After rectify the faults, sample is again sent to buyer, If it is OK then it is called approved sample.
7. Costing: 

 fabric consumption, making charge, Trimmings, Profit.
8. Production Pattern: 

 Add allowance with set dimension.
9. Grading:  

By following working pattern approved sample is made for medium size. It the buyer require different size. We have to grade the dimension. It may be S, L, M, XL, XXL, etc.
10. Marker Making: 

 Marker is a thin paper which contains all the components of all sizes of a particular style.
11. Fabric Spreading: 

 To spread the fabric on the cutting table properly for cutting.
12. Cutting:  

To cut fabric according to marker dimension.
13. Sorting & Bundling:  

Sorting out the component according to size & for each size make individual bundle.
14. Sewing: 

Sewing is done by different types of machine by the operator. Quality inspection is also done in that time.
15. Ironing & Finishing:  

Garments are treated by steam. Also several finishing process are done for example- extra loom thread cutting.
16. Final Inspection: Should meet specification given by buyers
17. Packing:   Poly packing
18. Cartoning:  

After packing the garments are placed in a hand paper box for export so as to minimize damage. The cartoons contain all the information over the box according to buyer’s instruction.
19. Sent to Buyers: 

 If everything is OK. It is sent to the Buyers.

Different Sections in a garments Industry

There are mainly four sections in a garments industry.

• Sample section
• Cutting section
• Sewing section
• Finishing Section

(1) Sample section: this section includes designing to marker making. The main function of this section is to make approved sample.
(2) Cutting section: This section includes process starting from “marker making to sorting & bundling” to cut fabric according to marker dimension is the main function of this section.
(3) Sewing section: This section includes only sewing. The function of this section is to make complete garments by using all of the cutting components for a particular style of garments.
(4) Finishing Section: This section includes process from “Ironing to sent to buyer’s, after making garments. It should treated by steam. Iron & use in it all of the finishing accessories & ultimately make the garments attractive as per buyer’s approved sample.

Some Definitions & Terms

Sample Garments:

Before going to star bulk production at first we have to make small quantity of garments which is sent to buyer for approval, these garments are called Sample garments.
Sample is always make upon medium size & it is quantity is at least 3-5 pieces or as per buyer’s requirements.

Approved Sample:

The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.

Counter Sample:

 To run the production smoothly we made the some Extra sample. Which represents 100% same as approved sample this is called Counter Sample.

Product Package: 

Product Package is a sheet or no. of sheets which includes the following

• Design / Sketch
• Specification sheet or Measurement sheet
• Label Positioning
• Accessories required
• Stitch type

Pattern: 

Pattern is the replica of various separate components of a garment. These patterns are placed on fabric or on this paper (marker paper) to associate in fabric cutting.

Working Pattern:

The pattern which is made for sample making is called working pattern.
It is made for a particular style with net dimension working pattern is also called garments pattern.

Production pattern:

 production pattern is the patterns made for a particular style with net dimension along with allowance.

Marker: 

Marker is a thin paper which contains all necessary pattern pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garment in such a way that fabric wastage would be least.

Numbering: 

The process of identifying different fabric lay in a fabric lay out by numbering (1, 2, 3……..) them is called Numbering.

Numbering is two Type:

Lay Numbering: for maintaining shade.
Pieces Numbering: to assemble to Specific Size.

Sewing: 

Sewing is the most important step of garments manufacturing. Sewing is the way of joining of garments components with the help of needle and thread. It is the dominant process of garments assembling & still the best way of achieving both strength and flexibility in seam.

Objects of sewing: 

The objective of sewing is the construction of the seam of required standard and performance with an appropriate level of economy in production.

Seam:  

Seam is the join between two or more plies of material. Seams are usually formed by sewing but welding adhesive one often used for making seam.
In another way seam can be defined as seam is the application of a series of stitches on stitch type to one or several pitches of material.

Requirement of garments assembling/ sewing:

Cutting fabric components: 

All parts of a particular garment should at first be available before sewing.

Need same numbering cut pieces:  

At first all components of a particular lay of fabric should be given same number. For example, all the component of 3rd lay is given number 3 then the same numbered components are used for making a garment. That is number 3 pocket in joined with number 3 back part and with number 3 sleeves and so on. We should not joined a component of a lay with another component of different lay. This is maintained for avoiding shade variation in garment. Because the shade of fabric may differ from lay to lay and if such shade variation is occurred. The garment will be rejected.

DTM sewing thread:  

Dye to match (DTM) sewing thread is essential for sewing, because the colure of fabric and thread should be identical. Again the fastness of dye of both thread and fabric should be same. Otherwise are will be faded us before the other. After the sewing thread being available garment manufacturing is started.
All accessories must be available: For making garments several accessories are required. For example- Zipper, Button, Interlining etc are required. They should be available.

Proper needle selection: 

For sewing particular garment. Proper needle should be of proper size and point. For sewing knitted fabric the needle should be of ball point and for sewing woven fabric shaped V- pointed needle should be used.

Seam Performance:

Performance of seam means the achievement of perfect strength, elasticity, durability, security & comfort along with any special fabric properties like flammability & waterproofing. Performance of seam means achievement of following qualities..

• Seam strength
• Seam elasticity
• Seam durability
• Security of seam
• Comfort of seam

1) Seam strength:

Seam strength should be lower or equal to fabric strength. If seam strength is higher than the fabric strength then the fabric may tear due to unexpected force applied or the fabric seam strength depends on

• Strength of the thread used.
• Stitch density.
• Seam type.

2) Seam Elasticity: 

The seam should be equal or higher elastic then the fabric, otherwise when force will be applied fabric will be stretched more than the sewing thread & sewing thread may tear and seam may be opened. Seam elasticity varies depending on the types of fabric. That is knitted or woven.

3) Seam Durability:

Durability of seam should be equal or higher than the fabric, especially the seam should not be damaged or worm out due to friction and while cleaning.

4) Security of Seam:

While using the garments, the seam thread should not be torn or opened.

5) Comfortness of seam:

In close fitting or undergarments, seam must not present an uncomfortable ridge or roughness to the skin.

Seam Allowance:  

A predetermined amount of fabric between the edge of component parts of the garments and the seam line. Too small a seam allowance greatly reduces the seam strength. A seam allowance is measured from the cut-edge of fabric to the main line of stitches. Excessive seam allowance results in fabric wastage.