Garments Washing & its Process

All about Garments Washing part-1

Maruf Mahfuz

Email: maruf.txt@gmail.com

Department of Textile Engineering

World University of Bangladesh.

Cell: 01738676060 

Introduction :

Washing is a process in which heavy or slight soiling is removed and transferred to the water in the form of a solution or dispersion. Washing has the effect of cleaning surfaces. The resulting effect is several physical/ chemical processes. Garment washing is the best touch of a garment. Same type of garments can produce several effects for several wash. To create wash look appearance, seems the new touch of fashion.

Garment washing is normally processed after stitching. As per fashion trend and customer demand buyers ask for garment washing though it increases the cost of the garment. For the washing buyer should mention exactly what types of washing they need for the order. Each wash has different types of appearance on the fabric surfaces. Wash types mainly depends on the product types. For denim product heavy enzyme is required where for knitted Tee light softener wash may be okay.

Indigo jeans were once the only item processed by the garment wash method, but this is no longer the case. A wide variety of different types of woven and knit fabrics dyed by different systems are now used in apparel that is garment washed before retail distribution. Emphasis is on comfort and softness. Also, some fashion trends favor the broken-in look and worn/faded seams that can only be achieved through garment processing.

Concept of Garments Washing :

The evolution of the jeans market led to the development of some unique and creative methods for the processing of denim garments. Originally, jeans were marketed and sold as work wear with primary emphasis on their durability and practicality. But when jeans were discovered and appreciated by consumers as general casual wear, they became fashionable, and new techniques were developed to enhance denim garments and make them more unique. These techniques include garment washing, stonewashing, stone washing with chlorine, ice washing, and cellulose enzyme washing. Basically, all of these techniques involve the processing of garments in rotary drum machines.

Figure: Tumble dryer after garments washing

The first generation of indigo jeans was stiff and uncomfortable when first purchased, due to the finishing techniques used for denim fabrics. Normally after weaving, greige denim is singed, finished with starch and a lubricant, and then mechanically shrunk. This mechanical shrinking did” break" the hand somewhat, but no other processing techniques were employed to provide a soft handle. Usually, consumers would take a newly purchased pair of jeans home and soften them by washing once or several times before the first wearing. Denim fabric continues to be process during the same basic finishing system, but after being cut and sewn, denim garments may undergo additional processing.
The second generation of the jeans market evolution produced pre-washed jeans by the manufacturer. These jeans had a slightly faded appearance and a softer hand that felt comfortable, as though they had been laundered several times. This trend became fashionable as well, and consumers were willing to pay the extra cost involved for this additional processing. Consumers no longer had to bother "breaking-in" their jeans themselves with the added benefit that the jeans were already shrunk to size with little or no residual shrinkage.
Not long after the introduction of pre-washed jeans, the idea of using abrasive stones to accelerate the aging process was developed and "stone washing" was born, creating an even more "broken-in"look.Next, chlorine bleach was incorporated in these wash techniques and a whole new paler blue denim family evolved. Then, ice washing was developed, in which the porous stones are soaked in a bleaching agent and then tumbled with dry or slightly damp garments. This process has been given many names, including acid wash, snow wash, white wash, frosted, etc. Actually, the term "acid wash" is a misnomer since acids alone should never be used for this process.

Most recently, a cellulose wash procedure was developed in which cellulose enzymes were used to accelerate color and fiber removal. A reduced quantity of stones can be used to create a desirable washed down appearance. This process can be more efficient; since with fewer stones, larger load sizes can be processed, and there is less of an abrasive effect on the inside of the rotary drum.

The primary objects of garment washing are : 

• To remove starch that applied during fabric manufacturing. 
• To soften the garment hand feels and improves bulkiness 
• To remove dirt, spots, oil stains that accumulate to garment at the garment manufacturing processes. 
• To remove chemicals used during printing process and embroidery process. 
• To fulfill customer demand. 
• Washed clothes can be worn directly after purchasing. 
• To give faded look or any other color tinted look to the garment. 
• To stabilize garment shrinkage and dimensional instability. 

General procedure of Garments Washing :

1. Garments can be inverted to minimize unwanted abrasion streaks (especially useful when preset creases are present).

2. Load machine with garments.

3. Desize with alpha amylase enzyme and detergent.

4. Drain.

5. Rinse.

6. Fill machine with water and heat to 60◦C.The liquor ratio can range from 10:1 to 20:1.Anumber of synthetic detergents can be used. Also, alkaline products such as soda ash or caustic soda can be added in amounts ranging from 0.5 to 2.0 grams/liter. Some chemical suppliers offer special products that accelerate the wash down process, dependent upon the particular dyestuff used.

7. Wash/tumble action for 20-60 minutes, depending upon desired effect.

8. Drain and rinse.

9. Apply softener.

10. Tumble dry.

11. Invert garments, if previously turned.

12. Press, if required

Process flow chart of washing in industry:

Desizing

↓

Required washing

↓

Softening

↓

Hydro extraction

↓

Dryer

↓

Quality control

Methods of Removing Sizes from Denim Jeans:

• Washing with High Alkaline agents (i.e. Soda ash
• Washing with High Acidic agents (i.e. Acetic acid)
• Washing with Oxidative chemicals (i.e. Hydrogen Peroxide)
• Enzymatic desizing with Alfa amylase. This is eco friendly & convenient.

Washing :

Here we discussed about the classification of washing and later on we will discuss about the different types of washing.

Desizing :

This is very first & basic step but most important step of washing. Here the fate of denim garment is decided that its going to appear good or bad. Good Pre treatments avoid streaking, stiffness & color loss. This process removes impurities, starch & stains during handling of fabric.
This step is also called desizing (Removal of Size applied during denim fabric making in weft yarn). All the woven fabric contains size on them due to reasons to strengthen the yarn for weaving. There are many types of sizes available in the market but they can be divided in two major groups.
Water Soluble (CMC or PVA based sizes) and
Dissolvable sizes in water (Starch based). Starch based sizes are most commonly used due to cheap prices & readily availability.

Methods of Removing Sizes from Denim Jeans:

1. Washing with High Alkaline agents (i.e. Soda ash) 
2. Washing with High Acidic agents (i.e. Acetic acid) 
3. Washing with Oxidative chemicals (i.e. Hydrogen Peroxide) 
4. Enzymatic desizing with Alfa amylase. This is eco friendly & convenient. 

Here we discussed about the classification of washing and later on we will discuss about the different types of washing. 

Typical Flow Chart of Washing:

Garments from store house 

↓ 

Count 

↓ 

Quality check 

↓ 

Batch 

↓ 

Washing 

↓ 

Hydro extractor 

↓ 

Drying 

↓ 

Quality check 

↓ 

Packing 

↓ 

Deliver 

Normally washing of garments are required for cleaning purposes, but in industry washing is done in most of the cases to bring different effects on the treated garments. Most of the case washing is done only for denim garments.

To be continued...............