Dry process of garments washing

All about Garments Washing part-3

Maruf Mahfuz

E-mail: maruf.txt@gmail.com

Cell-  01738676060

Department of Textile Engineering

World University of Bangladesh

Whiskers:

Mustaches or whiskers are one of the most important design of a used look garment. The idea of whiskers is taken form the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural wearing on hips and front thigh area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be find consequential to fabric, body shape of user or sitting posture. 

                                                            Fig: Whisker effect on denim

Various methods are designed to create this impression on jeans. Mostly rubber balloons are available with different pattern designs. Garments are mounted on balloons and filled with air to get impressions of whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over pattern carefully with sand paper on engraved pattern lines. This operation requires high skilled labor and who can handle uniformity and sequence in whisker line. Fabric may damage during rubbing if care is not taken. But this method is more successful in industries where the production is consistent to articles i.e similar articles are produced in large quantities. This method is famous for high quality and cost effectiveness.

Some times separate patterns are made and fixed on balloons to make mustaches. These patterns are made of thin rubber sheets and electric wires or rubber cords and pasted on balloons for pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to work in that way but it is not much successful for broad lines.

Engraved patterns on thick board like hard rubber sheets are widely used for whiskers impression making. This idea is very simple to draw lines on rubber sheets and engrave them with blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on specific area to draw this impression on garment. For its low cost patterns, it is most frequently used in small industries especially where the production is not consistent to style.

In some workshops it is done manually with the help of sharp edge rolled on fine wood sticks of pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution, placement and pattern must be marked on garment, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment.

On Denim, whiskers / Mustaches, Chevrons are nothing but the worn out lines / impression generated by natural wearing on hip & thigh area. There are many designs & pattern available.

This is being done manually with help of sharp edge Emery paper rolled on fine wood stick or pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution placements & pattern must be marked on garments, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment.

Hot spots are heavy/intense area on thigh or knee which is made purposely to create used look & on knee area if any whiskers line are there, called knee star.

All above operations are carried out in width direction hence it appears intense than hand sand with less strokes, because hand sand is carried out in length direction.

Process

• A process of whiskering denim, canvas, twill, corduroy garments is deserved below-
  By rubber pattern & sand blasting gun i.e. rubber pattern set on garment and sand through over the pattern.  
• By manually created whisker by sand paper on garment.
   
• Make a pattern just like pacific whisker and put it inside the garment, then rubbing front side of garment over pattern.
• Mentioned all process is done on garments fading effects occurs in garments. 
• By P.P. spray and P.P. sponging on garments.

Hand Whisker: During hand whisker the following elements are used-

1. Scraping paper
2. Pattern
3. Chalk Powder

Laser whisker:

The laser is applied on the fabric according to the require intensity. Which shown a special effect after wash.There are three parts in laser M / C Computer part, Siler part (chemical section) & Laser part. Here at first the design is made up in computer by photo-shop after it this design is transferred to the laser M / C. Then according to the require intensity the laser applied on the design portion.

Laser is produced by combination of CO2 + DC Current Easy mark supervisor software is used to do this work like following operating flow path.

Open ---> Import image ---> Open file for insert diagram ---> Image Size ---> Selection ---> Tools ---> Pointer Online ---> Pointer Online off ---> Print.

Configure ---> Advance Configure ---> Enable Automatic Selection ---> Ok.

Configure ---> Massage Table ---> Add (front right, back right, front back right) ---> After Adding OK ---> Print.

4. Tacking

Tacking is a process which is being done by swift tag machine with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on waistband, bottom hems, back pocket & front pocket corners etc.. after completing wash cycle, it must be removed from garment before making softening.

• Tacking is doing on garment for fashion and value added fashion wear.
• Tacking is doing by tagging machines.
• Tacking is doing also by needle & thread & manually.

After wash upper portion of garment occur crease mark and inside of tagging occurs dark shade.

5. Grinding:

It is being done on pocket edges & bottom hems edges by running against abrasion surface or stone to achieve worn out effect. Many different make of machines & pen grinding tools are available in the market which  runs with pneumatic system.

• Grinding is doing on garment for mainly old / used look appearance & fashion.
• Grinding is doing on hem, packet, edge, west belt pocket opening and pocket fluff of garments.
• Grinding is done by grinding machine, sand paper by manually.

Fig: Grinding tools

6. Damages/Destruction:

One of the most popular distressing effects currently, ‘Destruction’ is an art which make denim look unique & used. To make destruction pen type of stone tools being used in mid of wash process to apply on desired area. It can also be achieved by cutting it thru knife the warp yarns & keep the weft yarn as is to show white thread. Holes also can be made by cutting weft & warp yarns. These are all manual processes & every garment will look unique & different than others.

                                                                   Fig: Destroying

• Destroy is newly fashion on garments.
• Destroy is doing by manually
• Different types of machine used for destroy the garments Graind, Machine, Emary Cloth, Hacksaw Blade, Knife etc.

7. Wrinkle / Crinkle:

Resin (Formaldehyde free) being used for achieving 3D effect ( 3 Dimensional ), Rigid Look etc. This process can be done by spraying or dipping the garments in to Resin, Catalyst, Silicone & PU solution in right combination according to the fabric strength & desired effect needed.

After application of resin solution in right proportion, make manual designing as needed on the thigh, hip & back knee area to get 3Dimentional effect. After making it , it should be manually dried with hot press or hair dryer & then must be cured in oven at right temperature, time as mentioned in resin product manual. 

 

If resin not cured properly, 3 D effect will not be permanent & can cause skin irritation/rashes to the wearer. Highly skilled operators need to execute this process in order to get consistency & uniformity.

Resin Application( 3D Effect )

Whole garment can have crushed look by resin dip & crushed manually followed by oven curing. Silicone plays an important role in getting softer hand after oven.

Special streaky effect & Crackles also being done by applying resin on desired area followed by scraping & pp spray then neutralization.

Generally permanent wrinkle is doing on garments after all types of wet process wash in dry position.

Permanent wrinkle is done on the garments made from all types of fabrics like, Denim, Twill, Canvas, Poplin, Corduroy, knit & Polyester etc.

For permanent wrinkle we are use resin which is spray on garments particular / specific area by nozzle.

Resin is diluted with water which is recommended by chemical supplier, generally 20% resin & 80% water.After resin spray on respective area, then fold by buyer demand and clip attached the folding area.Now hangers the garment in to the hanger trolley, Trolley capacity approx 80 – 100 pcs garments.Then trolley with resin treatment garments put inside the industrial oven.

Set temperature 140oC to 160oC. Time 20 – 40 min (if folding layer is less, less time required, if folding layer is more, more time is required).Start the machine.When setting time is over M / C are automatically off. After heating time over garments with hanger will stay 10 min for cold in oven.

Now open the door and trolley with garments out from oven. Open the clip from garment and go to quality section for quality checking & delivery.

Miscellaneous:

Reverse: 

Just reverse the garments.

Busted seam:

 Iron press in the out seam (inside)

M/C: Shannaishi, Model: SC 100 – 150.

Crease mark:

 Just put a line in mid portion of pant by Scraping paper.

Pocket image: 

Artificial pocket mark by Scraping paper like old pent in where the back pocket area look like money bag image.


To be continued.............